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“We
know how to grow what we sell”
SAUTTER’S
GOLD METAL GUARANTEE
We will guarantee our nursery stock for one full
year with replacement nursery stock in kind, if originally installed by
us, not to exceed the original purchase price. The original charge for
labor will be charged on all replacements.
If our nursery stock is installed by the purchaser, we will guarantee
our nursery stock for one full year with replacement nursery stock in
kind not to exceed the original purchase price.
*Annuals, perennials, house plants and bulbs are
not guaranteed.
*Plants dead from lack of care are not guaranteed.
*Special Clearance priced items are not guaranteed.
*Roses and rhododendrons are guaranteed to November 1st of
the same year.
Our guarantee is valid only when dead nursery stock
is returned accompanied with the original guarantee sales slip, within
one year from date of purchase.
PLANT MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Plants make demands
for special care during the first year after installation; therefore,
proper maintenance is important in the establishment of new plantings.
If plants are given the care outlined below, their chances for proper
establishment and healthy growth will be greatly increased.
PLANT ESTABLISHMENT FACTORS:
WATERING
Watering is the most
important element needed for plant survival. During the period of
initial establishment, a plants root will only grow about an inch into
dry soil. Contrary to popular belief, roots do not "search” for water.
Long established plants have extensive root systems spreading far into
the existing soil around them, but the roots of a newly installed plant
need water supplied to them so they can spread. The message is:
IF YOU
WANT A TREE OR SHRUB TO DEVELOP A HEALTHY, EXTENSIVE ROOT SYSTEM, THE
AREA IN WHICH THE ROOTS ARE TO GROW MUST BE KEPT MOIST.
In the first week
after installation, all plantings should be watered 2-3 times. In the
second and third weeks after planting, they should be watered twice per
week. Finally, plants should be watered at least once a week until late
Fall (early December). Watering can only be omitted if plants receive a
steady, continuous rainfall of 4 to 6 hours. Too much water is as
detrimental as not enough, so a physical inspection of the top of the
root ball and soil adjacent to it should be done to determine the plants
watering needs. As a rule of thumb, the amount of water plants should
receive is as follows:
SMALL
SHRUBS (1 - 3' ht.)
4 - 5 Gallons per Watering
LARGE SHRUBS (3' ht. and over)
5 - 10 Gallons per Watering
SMALL TREES (4 - 8' ht.)
10 - 15 Gallons per Watering
LARGE TREES (8' ht. and over)
15 - 25 Gallons per Watering
GROUNDCOVER
20 - 30 Minutes Steady Sprinkling All Areas
The best way to
water trees and shrubs is to directly soak the rootball and the soil
immediately adjacent to it with the hose set at about 1 gallon of water
per minute. Plantings on slopes should be watered more slowly and for a
longer period of time to accommodate for water run-off.
CONTINUING CARE OF PERENNIALS
WATERING
AND FERTILIZING
The need to water
perennials varies from place to place as well as from month to month.
Where watering is needed much of the time, a more or less permanent
system of soaker hoses laying on the ground would be best.
Fertilization for
perennials is usually needed once or twice during the growing season.
Make one early
summer application of a granular 5-10-5 formulation at a lighter
application rate than during soil preparation (2 pounds per 100 square
feet), or one or two liquid fertilizer applications (use at half the
recommended rate to avoid burning tender young shoots and overdosing
with nitrogen which leads to excessive leafy growth).
For established
perennial plantings, surface or liquid applications of an all-around
garden fertilizer two or three times during the year will provide
adequate amounts of plant food. One application should be in early
spring while plants are still dormant, another six weeks into the
growing season, and the third in mid – to late summer.
Foliar sprays of
diluted liquid fertilizer will bring almost immediate though short-term
Results: for the best results when plants show signs of nutrient
deficiencies, combine foliar feeding with soil applications. A regular
fertilization program, though, should ensure healthy plant growth and
development.
FALL CLEANUP & WINTER CARE
When top growth has
died back, trim for neatness as desired, and clean out weeds before they
become established. Fall is the best time to lift and divide spring and
summer flowering perennials in all but the coldest climates. Otherwise,
divide perennials in spring. Dead top growth may either be removed
(necessary if it is likely to harbor fungus and insects) or left as a
protective mulch for the underground parts during winter. If it is
trimmed back to within a few inches of the ground, apply a winter mulch
after the ground has frozen: this will protect against alternate thawing
and freezing which tend to lift plants out of the soil. Remove any
remaining tops and the winter mulch in very early spring.
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“Plants Want to Live”
Here’s how you can help……..
1.
Plant as soon as possible from the time you leave the nursery
2.
Do not leave root ball or bare roots exposed to wind, air or sun
for extended periods (do all your soil preparation first).
3.
Do not plant too deep. Plants die from suffocation caused by
planting too deep. General rule to follow is plant no more than 1”
below original soil line on plant. On ball and burlaped stock and
potted material plant so top of ball is no more than 1” below surface.
4.
(a.) When planting bare root stock spread out the roots, always
pointing them downward, never curve them up to fit the hole – dig the
hole deeper or wider if necessary.
(b.) Always dig your hole wide enough so you can get your heel all the
way around as a stomper and this firms the soil around the roots or root
ball.
5.
Water Well
(a.)
The first watering is the most important watering – this gets rid
of any leftover air pockets - makes the precious union between soil and
roots.
(b.)
Future watering should be thorough – light sprinkles only tease
the plants and do little good.
(c.)
Water according to natural rainfall.
Evergreens store up
moisture in the fall for winter. You can really help an evergreen by
thorough weekly watering up till the ground freezes
FERTILIZING
Trees, shrubs and
groundcover should be fertilized every Spring between March and April or
every Fall between October and November with an all purpose fertilizer
such as 12-12-12 or
10-10-10. Follow the
instructions on package for the amount and method of application.
However Myrtle, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Pachysandra, Pieris, Dogwoods,
Hollies, and other Evergreens should receive an acid based fertilizer.
MULCHING
A mulch is intended
to stay on top of the soil, usually in a layer 2 - 3" thick. Tests have
shown that mulches help to retain water in the soil, keeping the soil
temperature cooler and reducing the amount of water needed. Mulches
also deter weeds from establishing, insulate roots for cold winters, and
aid in long term development of good soil structure. Mulch naturally
breaks down and deteriorates, so should be added to in order to maintain
a 2 - 3" layer. It is also important to keep mulch several inches away
from the stem or trunk of plants. Weeding is a constant process and bed
areas must be kept clean to insure that the plants don't compete for
light, moisture and nutrients.
INSECTICIDE SPRAYING
Insecticide spraying
should be performed three times per year: early May, mid June, and late
July. Two of the best all - purpose products are Orthene and Malathion.
These products control most insect problems, with the exception of
Spider Mites for which Kelthane is used. Labels on products must be
read thoroughly.
For precautions,
mixing and application instructions.
STAKE REMOVAL
After a period of 12
months, all stakes, wires and hose should be carefully removed. The
root system, by this time, will have been established.
WEED
CONTROL
While perennials are
small, it’s an easy task to hand-weed or hoe lightly between the
plants to prevent weeds from becoming established and from competing
with the perennials for moisture and nutrients. As perennials grow and
spread, weeds will be fewer. Remove those that do grow so the
perennials can continue their unrestricted development.
A mulch of shredded
bark, applied to the bare and weed-free soil between (but not touching)
perennials, will help not only with wee control but this moisture
conservation.
MULCHES
Mulching with rotted
bark, peat moss, or other organic material will improve the air/water
relationship in the soil. Most perennials also perform better the
following spring if an application of straw, leaves or evergreen boughs
has been made in late autumn to protect against winter damage (with a
supply of nitrogen as needed to assist when un-rotted straw and leaves
start to decay). The need for protection is greatest where the planting
site is at the northern limit of a variety’s hardiness rating.
STAKING / SUPPORT
Taller growing
perennials such as some varieties of Aster need support to
prevent their flopping over. While the plants are still fairly short
and before they start to fall, insert branching twigs among the foliage
and between plants. Subsequent growth will cover the twigs. For the
individual heavy stems of, say, Delphinium of hollyhock (Alcea
rosea), use single canes, stakes, or other supports. More than one
tie per stem will be needed as the plant grows.
TRIMMING
Dead-heading
(removal of dead flowers) and trimming off damaged parts during the
growing season will maintain neat, trim, long-blooming perennials.
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Dates
to Remember